Volkswagen T-Roc Forum banner
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I took the DashCam out of the Audi before we part-ex'd it, so I thought I'd have a go at putting it into the T-Roc.

--This is NOT a guide, just pics of what I did. So if you decide to have a go yourself, on your own head be it--

This is the kit I use in all my cars. It stays on till the battery drops down to a specific voltage (I set mine to 12.2v)
You need an earth, Constant battery feed and Ignition.
I also use 'piggy back' fuses, which allow you to add an extra fuse to the stock fusebox.



Then the lighter connection plugs into the unit and powers the camera.

So, this is my ham-fisted attempt. :lol:
Open the glove box (does anyone actually keep gloves in there anymore?) and put the two tabs either side at the top to drop it down further.



Unclip the bar on the door side so the whole thing swings all the way down.





So, the two power supplies come from the fuse box.
Not sure the fuses I used are right, will have a play with it long term but they will do for now.
I need one to be constant and one to be on the ignition. Will do more research in the future.



Removed the lower foam cover from under the dash to look for an earth point.





First time I have struggled to find an earth on a car! Found one but it was tricky to remove the bolt and bolt back up again with a socket, as the glovebox frame gets the the way. But it flexes enough to slacken it off, slide an earth fork onto it and tighten it back up again.




The two powers and earth are fitted. I wrapped the battery minder box and cables with fabric tape, to stop it rattling, then wedged it to the right of the heater box, as there is plenty of room.

Next job is running the cable up the side of the car to the mirror.

Used some plastic trim removal tools to pop off the passenger side a-pillar.
Take care and make sure you remove the cables for the tweeter.



The door edge rubber pulls off easily to allow you to run the cable.



Personally, I have a plastic covered wire coat-hanger than I unwound years ago, that I use as my trusty cable chaser.


Make sure you take the cable towards the front of the car as you need to follow the harness that is all ready there and keep well away from the airbag.



I snaked round the harness, to keep the cable secure and away from the airbag.





At the top of the pillar, the cable tucks very easily into the front edge of the headlining.

Make sure that you get the right amount of cable for your positioning of the camera on your windscreen.
This time round, I fixed it 'very' low down, as per my wife's request (it is her car after all!) so the camera sites behind the rear view mirror from her point of view. (moved the phone over slightly so you CAN see it!)





Any slack cable can be pulled back and coiled up behind the dash much easier than trying to cram it into the headlining!

As the camera is so low down in the window, I also used sticky clips to make sure the cable stays where it should....



Putting it all back together was pretty easy. Bit scary knocking the a-pillar cover back on again but it always is!
Used a few cable ties here and there to keep things secure, as well as some fabric tape to stop it all from rattling.

Anyway, comments and suggestions are always welcome.

--------------------------

Also took a few other random pics that I thought might help me if I did it again.











 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Very helpful post - thank you.

Whilst I can understand you needed to fit it low down (from your wife's perspective), it does look as though it is a bit "in the way" of anyone sitting in the passenger seat - or is it not too bad in reality? I will fit something similar as when and if I ever actually take delivery !!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
In reality, it doesn't really effect the passenger.
Yes, they can see it on their side of the screen but it's really all about the driver.
It's not blocking much the passengers view.

At the end of the day, I put it exactly where my wife wanted it. :mrgreen:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Maybe it's just me, but I'd rather not see pictures of dodgy welding/bundled cables etc normally hidden in my car. A bit like internal organs in your body, you know they're there but never want to see them :roll: And wouldn't all this risk invalidating your warranty?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Bopper said:
How does affect your warranty all that wiring etc?
If you can get the hard wiring kit from Halfords, I wouldn't expect it to affect the Warranty, but you could check with VW to be sure.

My dash cam is plugged into the rear 12V socket for now, I was thinking of getting Halfords to hard wire it, but worried that it may be the first one they have come across and not know how to get to the fuse box without damaging anything
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
I've hard wired my dashcam, almost. I used a 10mm ring spanner on the nut for the earth. You can get to it from underneath the glove box.
I've not wired it up to the fuse box yet, as I not sure what fuse to attach it to. I've only got one + wire to plug in, I want to attached it to the 12v socket feed. Does anybody know what fuse this will be?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
456 Posts
I had my Nextbase hardwired for £30 (normally £50) by Halfords in just 30min last Friday. No hassle, just 5" of cable showing below roof panel. Store on a retail park so spent time looking at technology in nearby Curries superstore.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
456 Posts
Oops....... Currys Superstore, could not get a chicken madras, just a new USB cable for mobile phone :oops:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
428 Posts
Keep an eye on that sucker !! On the wife's motor it dries out quite quickly and the whole lot ends up swinging on the end of the cable ... On my 'Pride of the fleet' I've used double sided adhesive pads and I think I'll have to smash the glass to remove it!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
456 Posts
Swsgm30 said:
Keep an eye on that sucker !! On the wife's motor it dries out quite quickly and the whole lot ends up swinging on the end of the cable ... On my 'Pride of the fleet' I've used double sided adhesive pads and I think I'll have to smash the glass to remove it!!
Thanks for that. My sucker de-sucked it's self just once in 12 months on my previous car. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Hi all.

I should be taking delivery of 2 new T-Roc R Lines next week for me and the wife. I have a Nextbase 412GW hard wired into my existing car which I did myself. I work in the technology / engineer sector so no stranger to DIY installs.

Im going to be transferring my cam over and buying the wife the same model and hard wire kit as myself. My question is what fuses is everyone using and did you need an adapters? From memory the hard wire kit comes with 2 different size piggy bank fuses but are these the right sizes for the T-Roc or should I get an adapter from Nextbase ready (think car fuses come in these sizes - maxi, regular, mini, low-profile mini, micro 2 & micro 3).

Thanks everyone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,323 Posts
DeanBaker said:
Hi all.

I should be taking delivery of 2 new T-Roc R Lines next week for me and the wife. I have a Nextbase 412GW hard wired into my existing car which I did myself. I work in the technology / engineer sector so no stranger to DIY installs.

Im going to be transferring my cam over and buying the wife the same model and hard wire kit as myself. My question is what fuses is everyone using and did you need an adapters? From memory the hard wire kit comes with 2 different size piggy bank fuses but are these the right sizes for the T-Roc or should I get an adapter from Nextbase ready (think car fuses come in these sizes - maxi, regular, mini, low-profile mini, micro 2 & micro 3).

Thanks everyone.
Wow !

I'm sorry I can't answer your questions about fuses, but how did you manage to get 2 T-Roc R-Lines for delivery in the same week ?

Many of us have struggled to get just one any time this decade :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
To be honest I was only looking for one for the wife and when we went to our local dealer I saw the T-Roc and fell in love with it.

From what I've read on here and elsewhere it does seem to be that we have been very lucky. We had to choose from what stock they had (could factory order but would be waiting a while from what I gather). So we had to settle for a Ravenna Blue (me) and a Solid White (wife). I wanted the black but the blue is just as nice. Both 1.6 diesels and only thing they don't come with which I would have liked is the power boot and parking assist. Apart from that they come with the works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
428 Posts
DeanBaker said:
Hi all.

I should be taking delivery of 2 new T-Roc R Lines next week for me and the wife. I have a Nextbase 412GW hard wired into my existing car which I did myself. I work in the technology / engineer sector so no stranger to DIY installs.

Im going to be transferring my cam over and buying the wife the same model and hard wire kit as myself. My question is what fuses is everyone using and did you need an adapters? From memory the hard wire kit comes with 2 different size piggy bank fuses but are these the right sizes for the T-Roc or should I get an adapter from Nextbase ready (think car fuses come in these sizes - maxi, regular, mini, low-profile mini, micro 2 & micro 3).

Thanks everyone.
Didn't you get pictorial instructions with your hard-wire kit? I did, If I remember correctly, the 'piggy-back'connector has 2 receptors for fuses... Just match the prongs of the fuse that you are going to use
One receives whichever fuse you remove to insert the connector and the other is for a fuse rated to protect the camera ... It will be the same as (you say) you have previously done.
You obviously need to chose a fuse that switches 'live' with the ignition. The 12v socket is normally the chosen one but I don't know if it's ignition controlled, p220 in the Owners Manual shows it to be F40, 20amps. As an alternative, F23, is for the the electric glass roof .. Even if you don't have an electric roof the fuse position may ( should?) be wired and will almost certainly be ignition controlled .. Hope this helps ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
535 Posts
Hi. Does the 12v socket stay live when the car engine is switched off on the troc?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Tigermad said:
Hi. Does the 12v socket stay live when the car engine is switched off on the troc?
No, the 12v socket ( in both front and rear passenger compartments ) is only live when ignition is ON.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top