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Engines are run in on a bench before fitted to the vehicle ..... apparently.

My experience is, the engine is still tight and smells a little.

For the first 500 miles I am kind to the car, then for the next 500 miles I like to move off in first and second gear and stretch revs out to 3500 revs before changing up where possible.

After 1000 miles I will stretch the revs out to 5000 in first and second gear where possible.... it feels strange, but I like to rev the car out under controlled circumstances. I've done this with high performance works cars and my own family cars and motorcycles.
They all went on to be quite quick but more importantly didn't appear to use oil between services.

My own car has just reached 1500 miles today. I've followed the above for the run in period, including the past 300 miles of a long journey being trying to get the best mpg. (Apart from a few fast blips)
This has realised 43mpg over the past 300 miles and 53mpg over the past 30 miles.

Now I've hit the magic 1500 miles, I plan to go for another run involving stretching the revs close to the red line for the first time tomorrow.

Mpg will be out the window, but I will enjoy the sharp run.

One bit of advice, wait until the oil temperature is well above 50 degrees on the multi function computer before revving the car out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks "Betty" like you, I find it pretty unlikely the engines on any mass produced car are bench run in!
Thanks for that hopefully getting our 2litre TDi SEL next week so need to get some miles under its belt before pulling our caravan. The oil temp tip is a good one for towing too, I'll make sure I find it on the computer.
 

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My current car, Volvo V40 D2, I was told "no need to run it in, just drive it as you normally would from day 1". So I did. It doesn't appear to have done it any harm, 5 faultless years later.
I'm moving back to Petrol with the T Roc, and the 1.0 at that. I reckon I'm gonna miss the torque, and the mpg, but still love the car.
 

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Not sure about a TDI, but the online manual for a TSI states

Running in the engine

A new engine has to be run in during the first 1,500 kilometres. This enables all the moving parts to bed in together. During the first few operating hours, the engine has higher internal friction than it does later.

Do not depress the accelerator fully.
Do not drive the vehicle at more than 2/3 of the maximum engine speed.
Gradually increase speed and engine speed.
The style of driving during the first 1,500 kilometres will also affect the engine quality. Even after this time - and especially with a cold engine - drive the vehicle at moderate engine speeds in order to reduce engine wear and to increase the mileage that the engine can cover.

Do not drive at engine speeds which are too low. Always shift down gear if the engine is not running smoothly.

If the engine is run in gently, its life will be increased and its oil consumption reduced.
 

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My experiences with three different 2.0 TDI VW engines (in Skoda cars) is that they gradually improve all the way to about 10,000 km. Smoothness, power and mileage gets better and better up to that level.

It's not that they need babying for more than the first 1000 km or so, only that they do improve over time. Note also that TDI engines need to do some real work at times - not just pussyfooting around all the time. A good hard drive on the motorway or pulling a heavy trailer does clean things out.
 

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Agerbundsen said:
My experiences with three different 2.0 TDI VW engines (in Skoda cars) is that they gradually improve all the way to about 10,000 km. Smoothness, power and mileage gets better and better up to that level.

It's not that they need babying for more than the first 1000 km or so, only that they do improve over time. Note also that TDI engines need to do some real work at times - not just pussyfooting around all the time. A good hard drive on the motorway or pulling a heavy trailer does clean things out.
I have the 1.5 petrol version, just 3300 km now but the consumption improve with the time, also new vehicles with cylinder deactivation drives a little different form older ones.
 
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