And the parking system?

 

Direct plug&play, no modifications

You just transfer the whole harness from old bumper to new one (already has sensor holders on it) and you're good to go

Works normally - tested each sensor individually as well as real life usage in reverse parking

A bit more sensitive due to orientation of the outer sensors (they face more to the outside of the car), but I don't think that's a bad thing

 

Sound sample with exhaust (flaps permanently open for now) with centre silencer

Uploading another video soon after I do the resonator delete, should sound much better

 

Good job 👏

Very few owners do modifications, makes a nice change.
Keep us posted 😎

You might want to look at @doggy he's done a few mods.

Sign up to the German forum there are a few mods on there.

 

Yeah, main problem with custom mods is $$

Often it's simpler to swap the whole car in one go but this is more fun (and I had extra cash to throw at it)

Now I'm feeling brakes are very lacking after OEM+ upgrade so that's the next immediate change in upcoming months

I'm split between ATE LD2617 and Brembo P 85 131X with their respective brake discs

Also thought of going Racingline BBK but I don't see a need for that as it's a daily car and it won't see a track day anytime soon, at best some backroads

Will check out the german forum, thanks for the advice!

 

Nice work

You do however know that the R has piano black rear bumpers and the R-Line painted ones?

 

Yes, however this is the case for facelift R

There were a year or two where R existed as non-facelift and that is the one with the biggest chance for compatibility with the stock 2019 T-Roc

The one with black bumper has 2 extra parking sensors near wheel arches which pre-facelift doesn't have, so that tells me VW reworked whole bumper and potentially clips and internals as well (even lights are a little different on facelift T-Roc)

Afaik, make years 2020 and 2021 are non-facelift T-Roc Rs

Reference car for vin and ordering parts: https://vf.vin/en/car/e40fb-volkswagen-troc-2021-wvgzzza1zmv124721.html

Alrhough that piano black bumper looks real real nice I was not brave enough to go for it and potentially throw it away if it didn't fit, so for me cheaper option is to simply have that part painted on the new bumper

Also, I somehow like the frontend of non-facelift R more than on facelift, don't know why

 

Looks great. I’d like to do the ‘R‘ exhaust & valance on my 2.0Tsi.

I believe (from my limited investigation so far) that it is a straight swap but I’m happy to be educated if that’s not the case.

 

Hi 👋

It's not fully 100% direct swap but I'd say it is 95% direct swap

The most important point is - all the clips under headlights and trunk are exactly the same, major difference happens when you ho further down

For starters, you will have extra screw holes on far ends of the black valence (exhaust coutout part) and nothing to screw into them

The original hanger from the old bumper is more towards the inside so you'll have 2 options there:

1. Cut it off, extend with another piece of metal more to the outside in order to align with new screw holes

2. Just bend that piece up and away to make space for exhuast pipes

Also, wheel arches don't fit from original car - holes are not the same

I had to re-order the R arches after finding out the hard way so now my car has old ones completely stripped without clips and held on only with plastic clamps until new ones arrive

Make sure to buy rear wheel arches as well when ordering the bumper

Rest of the pieces are all straightforward, may require some DIY at the outer ends to additionally secure the bumper if you chose to just bend the hangers upwards (I went with this option)

For the exhaust, for me it came with motors included but by default motor position for flaps is off - you can manually position them to on with 3 wires and 12V battery (no resistors needed on my end, used a spare 12V battery from a motorcycle)

Guide I followed:

When the flap reaches open position, just disconnect the +12V wire and it won't go back - the stepper motor will hold the flaps open firmly

Exhaust is pretty silent with resonator and OPF, so my suggestion is to cut out the resonator as well - I ordered this part and waiting for it to arrive, will keep you posted about the sound when I swap it

Anti-drone version: T-Roc R Resonator Res Delete Mandrel Bent Exhaust | RPM PERFORMANCE

For exhaust, it's very simple - cut off old one and connect new one with the clamp (make sure to order clamp as well, separate part from exhaust)

Hangers go 1:1 from new to old, no mods there, just grab a pair of exhaust hanger pliers and stick a screwdriver and "pull" upward while using them a little so it comes off easier - do this when exhaust is off from the car

Get some gorilla tape for the parking sensor harness as there are not manly places to clip them on to on the new bumper, some parts will be hanging

If you have any other doubts, let me know - I'll post it for future adventurers

 

If it's an R-line you may make it with just the valence swap, mine was not an R line so I had to swap the whole bumper, but from what I saw on the images R line valence goes end to end so you may have more luck than me

 

Thanks, it looks the same so hopefully a simple swap.

 

Yes, that looks promising

Iirc the valence part itself was around 150 bucks, exhaust came in at ~600 with motors, there's a cheaper option without motors but then you'll need to somehow secure the flaps from swinging around inside

 

Update

Fitted a resonator delete pipe, so far exhaust is not any louder but it has more sounds and resonance, even some faint burbles if you hit specific rpm

As it's still fresh we'll see how it behaves after some driving, but for now I think leaving flaps open permanently will not cause any problem

Cold Exhuast

Hot Exhaust

 

@AsurA Thanks for sharing your mods, will help others on here 😎

The exhaust sound under low revs seems to be the sweet spot at the minute 😉

 

I'm hoping it picks that sound up after a few thousand kms at wider rev range when it "burns in"

So far happy with it, cheaper alt than aftermarket exhausts

 

Another update, probably last one

Did the "oil upgrade"

2.0TSI Budack engine can take VW504 and VW508 standards, and with the tune I'm more comfortable running VW504 for additional protection

My engine code is DKZA and it can take the same oil as the R version (code DNUE)

Engine sound after revs drop:

Before tune: 0W-20 OEM VW LL4 (VW 508.00 standard)

After tune: 0W-30 Castrol Edge LL3 (VW 504.00 standard)

 

Did you put oil with specification 0w30?

 

@Seal He has highlighted 0-20w on the chart 🤔

Edit: He wrote 504 oil went in it 0-30W

@Impala @twist delete this please , answered by original poster.

 

@Seal
I've had 0W-20 previously, OEM original LongLife IV

I've just put 0W-30 Castrol Edge LongLife III and that's what I'll be using going forward


Before Stage 1
VW LongLife IV 0W-20 (VW 508 00)

After Stage 1 (current)
Castrol Edge LL3 0W-30 (VW 504 00)

 

I think you shouldn't put this viscosity at 0W30, because for your engine the recommended one is 0W20, the oil standard is important, but the viscosity is also important and respecting these values prolongs the life of the engine,my opinion.

 

VW504 standard doesn't have 0W-20 oil as far as I know, and it's a supported standard for DKZA engine (ref below)

Particularly inportant as you see for countries with questionable fuel quality it's mandatory for Fixed Service to use VW504 standard

So in essence, the 2.0 TSI Budack cycle supports both, 0W-20 and 0W-30, though it ships with 0W-20 from factory due to less fuel consumption and is good enough if you run a stock engine

Considering mine is pushed quite a bit with a remap, and from the research I did previously, I decided to go with VW504 (0W-30) oil for better protection

This image is taken from a manual for the 2020 version manual so that's an official info

As far as I know, all viscosities are the same accross a certain standard, meaning VW508 is 0W-20 series of oils, whereas VW504 is 0W-30

Let me know if there's something I'm missing, but even im the parts catalogue in a service shop I got recommended 5W-30 for the car instead of 0W-20 initially

P.S. Went with 0W-30 instead of 5W-30 as it has better @100C protection index and is easier flowing, as well as requires better baseline oil before any additives so in the inevitable oil breakdown with use, it will not degrade to the extent the 5W counterpart would

Bonus points for being easier-flowing for cold starts due to 0W coefficient

Appreciate the message, thanks for the heads-up!

 

I have an extreme itch to replace the exhaust. I have the 2020 2.0TSI 190ps 4motion Sport version and the "fake" exhausts are so lame.. Also coming from an Alfa QV, the sound is just meh... Did you see any performance gains from just the exhaust with open flaps? Is there any way to have the flaps working automatically (reprogram ecu?) like they would do on the R?

 

I honestly don't think any noticeable performance gain will be observable purely from numbers, but the sound that you will hear with exhaust will definitely make it seem more powerful

I can't recommend stage 1 tune for this engine enough, that's the #1 thing I'd invest, you get a free GTI power and if you don't touch factory dsg map fuel consumption will be 1l less than before if you drive the same

For ECU control for flaps, I don't think that's possible, but you can fit APR exhaust remote kit and control them on your own

The car is nowhere near as loud as you imagine it will be with diff exhaust because of variable intake valves - it only gets properly loud after intake lobes switch to higher duration profile on 3B engine, which is 3100rpm+, before that the sound i just right for a daily car

Installation overview:

Note: Flaps open has a lot more bass which isn't noticable on phone speaker, if u have headphones plug them in to hear the diff

With valves closed in the cabin you hear nothing, same as original exhaust

I connected APR remote to rear LED trunk light for + and ground in the right liner in the trunk and it works no issues

If you plan to go down the exhaust route, I'd highly recommend stage 1 tune, either APR or RacingLine (my pick), as that will wake up exhaust properly

Post some pics if you do it

 

Why you have to be like that, sending me down the rabbit hole with RacingLine? I promised myself I won't mess with this car but one thing brings the other... the exhaust does sound great though.

 

RacingLine is the safe option, they go on more conservative side for daily driving but it has plenty of kick and whole bunch of torque

It'd be a shame not to use potential of the engine when it's already available, block goes up to 600hp no problem so 240 won't stress it at all

I did ECU & TCU and couldn't be happier, although TCU tune will increase consumption as it holds revs around 2k so for economy i shift manually

Exhaust on its own probably won't sound the best on stock car as under 3100 rpm smaller lobes are used and it's pretty toned down, but above 3k rpm it wakes up like a monster and gives 2nd kickback, first being turbo spool

0 - jail time pretty quickly

I'm planning to do a review with all the mods I have done so far but still haven't dialed the gear setup down, fighting with the mics still

Only "downside" I can see for stage 1 is having to bring the PCM device with you in case you wind up having to pit 95 octane in it (fuel type change takes about 1 min, complete reflash takes around 7 min, doable without battery charger)

And for safety's sake I went with 0W-30 oil and it has less "grinding" noises than the 0W-20 did

Also make sure to enable responsive throttle in obd11 and also more responsive haldex mod, makes world of difference now bonnet jumps up at WOT and throttle application is very snappy

 

So I am seriously considering the ecu remap. I can see I can buy the obd cable for 198£ but I can't find info about the software/flashing cost if I do it on my own. Can you share the cost for it? The troc is my daily "family" car so I would like to keep the mods to minimum and I care about economy, but I have tbh, I seriously considered the 240hp. I also saw they have a dsg "tuning" software. Have you tried it?

 

Yes, got the DSG software and ECU software

ECU I can recommend to anyone - power will be immediately noticeable

DSG I'd not recommend for you since you want it to be a family car, my average fuel consumption before DSG map was 8.2l/100km, with ECU tune purely it dropped to 7.4l/100km and with DSG map it shot up tp 10.5l/100km

Where the gear ends on normal DSG map, it starts on tuned one

For me total costs were ~200£ for tuning device and them 350£ ECU + 350£ TCU (discounted), I ordered from UK since RL doesn't have any authorized shops in my country

Standalone ECU was about 400£ and that gets discounted a little if you buy a bundle

For the DSG it's a decision - shift points will happen much later in D, you can expect current S to be your new D and new S will be even more monstrous, but the price you pay for that is economy

If you don't mind driving in M mode all the time and shifting on your own, TCU map can be a good option as peak torque will increase and gear changes are smooth as hell, but if you absolutely want to go for economy stock DSG is the way

You can flash things via bluetooth on phone so if you get both maps and plan a long trip for example you can flash stock TCU and then when you want spirited driving you can flash Stage 1, that's an option I went for

I don't mind shifting manually so despite having DSG tune I can still pull off 7.5-8l if I shift manually at around 2k rpm for first 2 gears and then even under 2k rpm for D3,D4,D5,D6,D7

TCU is a hit or miss really

Here's how it shifts:

Make sure to check your PCV valve before going for tuning and one thing that you may need to do is replace the oil fill cap on the motor head (40$ on ebay), depending how old your car is
Mine started weeping because of added power so I swapped it and no more problems

And also plan for a brake upgrade in the future, stock ones are inadequate for 240hp

Not necessary immediately unless you plan to drive like maniac everywhere you go, but if you do then it's very beneficial to have them

 

Thank you for all the information. ECU seems like the reasonable way to go and leave dsg and the rest as is. As I am coming from an Alfa QV, I was used to huge brembos, and it felt like a downgrade on the t-roc brakes. That been said, I have recently replaced the vw disks with zimmermann which feels more solid but you are correct, an upgrade would be much needed.

It looks like there are a couple oftechnical centers and a national importer near me, so I will check with them for prices. I prefer getting the PDM and do it on my own cause they usually charge extreme prices in my country (Greece). For the Alfa I was asked for 2.5k for a stage1 remap!

 

Thank you for all the information. ECU seems like the reasonable way to go and leave dsg and the rest as is. As I am coming from an Alfa QV, I was used to huge brembos, and it felt like a downgrade on the t-roc brakes. That been said, I have recently replaced the vw disks with zimmermann which feels more solid but you are correct, an upgrade would be much needed.

It looks like there are a couple oftechnical centers and a national importer near me, so I will check with them for prices. I prefer getting the PDM and do it on my own cause they usually charge extreme prices in my country (Greece). For the Alfa I was asked for 2.5k for a stage1 remap!

Damn that's insane
Just do it yourself, it's insanely easy - reaching out to RacingLine directly on their site should be the best option

 

Posted the front transformation as well: https://www.trocforums.co.uk/threads/t-roc-r-conversion-complete.4429/

That's thw second part